After-event pictures!

Some pictures now...

Another picture of the akunoya, a little wet from the rain. It has actually held up much better than I expected.

Clothes I made for Richard with Reconstructing History's Elizabethan Sea Dogs pattern... (ignore the man in fundoshi - I didn't make those). He still needs proper shoes, a hat, maybe a ruff and, if he's going to be Portuguese, a capelet. But it's a decent start.

   

My own clothes (missing waraji, and might benefit from arm and leg guards when it gets cold)

I have to show you my friends from Lotus no Chi too!

Japanese clothing

I've started making my clothes for Bicolline this summer.

I *know* that on extant paintings of the time, the majority of hats are the typical Chinese pointy hats... but I don't like the fact that they're so strongly associated with Chinese now... I've found better, if less period. For 3,50 a hat, I decided it would be good enough for now.

And, this is the fabric all cut out, with all the edges properly finished (the three on the left are linen, I don't want them to fray!). I had to cheat on the two left pieces and split the collar in the middle. I didn't have enough fabric.

I've started sewing, and hit a snag... the collar seam line, as it continues into the front body piece, and the sewing line for the overlap panel.

Both Saionji and Kass say to sew the overlap to the edge of the front panel, and the diagram in Dalby seems to agree.

But Marshal (I know, modern) tells us to sew the overlap to the collar sewing line, like this:

Trouble is, when I look at pictures of extant kosode in Momoyama: The Golden Age and Japanese Costume and Textile Arts, I think he might actually be right! The okumi sewing line seems to go right into the collar sewing line...

What shall I do?

Add-on: I asked the question on SCA-JML list and I'm not sure I can explain clearly... Here's another diagram...

A: The overlap (in red) is sewn right to the edge of the main body piece.

B: The overlap (in red) is offset from the edge and lines up with the collar sewing line (dotted line). This is the version I think I'm seeing on extant pieces.